We have all probably taken vitamin C pills, especially when we were ill. Vitamin C or ascorbyl acid is present in fresh fruits and vegetables. It is important for collagen and carnitine synthesis and for fatty acid metabolism. It is the strongest antioxidant among water-soluble vitamins and is used in skin care as an effective ingredient in the fight against aging. They do not call it the elixir of youth in vain.
Vitamin C in creams due to its properties deserves special attention! Prevents aging, gives volume, brilliance and radiance to skin, makes it firmer, more elastic, healthier and younger. That is why it wears the title of one of the top stars of anti-age cosmetics.
The human body does not have the ability to synthesize vitamin C, and it plays a key role in the health of the skin and body. Clinical studies have shown that local administration of vitamin C increases collagen production in young and older human skin.
Vitamin C is involved in collagen synthesis, because if to skin cells, fibroblasts, which are responsible for the formation of collagen, we add vitamin C, it will increase collagen synthesis and the skin will be more elastic, firmer and will look younger, because the collagen itself fills the wrinkles and improves the structure of the skin. Because of vitamin C, collagen also takes on the best configuration and becomes more resistant to damage. It also ensures the stability of collagen exposed to UV radiation.
Vitamin C also boosts the formation of lipid barriers of the skin, oils important for protecting the skin. Prevents melanin synthesis, thereby preventing the development of hyperpigmentation and discoloration on the skin. It can also help fade existing ones.
Its antioxidant effectiveness in combination with vitamin E has also been scientifically proven.
Due to its exceptional antioxidant properties it defends the skin from free radicals and harmful environmental influences and helps to restore the skin.
Vitamin C is sensitive to external influences. Water, light and high temperatures break it down and it loses its properties. Therefore, it is important to choose the product in an opaque bottle when choosing the product, and to keep it in a dry and cool place after opening.
There are several vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside (AG), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbyl and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP).
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) was most researched. By entering SAP into the deeper layers of the skin, the actions of the enzyme release pure vitamin C. SAP also has a prolonged effect. Products containing this form of vitamin C are very stable, their texture and color does not change.
Ascorbyl glucoside (AG) also allows for good penetration and a prolonged effect of action on the skin.
Most vitamin C derivatives are hydrophilic, which means its water soluble. The disadvantage is that in these case molecules are difficult to penetrate through the epidermis, through the lipid layer. However, penetration of vitamin C through the lipid layer of the skin will happen with the correct formulation of the product with an adequate acidic level, which is indicated by the pH level of the product.
So, it is important to notice when choosing a product. Some vitamin C derivatives require high acidity, about pH 2 or 3, which can only be tolerated by oily or normal skin types or those who are already accustomed to this type of acidic level. While sensitive, dry and reactive skin to such a product is highly unlikely to be well-suited. On the other hand, vitamin C derivatives such as SAP and AG ideal pH values are in the range between 5.0 and 7.0, making them stable and effective on the skin, and yet gentle for every skin type.
It is also important the concentration of vitamin C. Effective vitamin C serum is proportional to the concentration, but only up to 20%. The optimal amount is between 10 and 20 % of the C vitamin content in the product. According to clinical trials, higher concentrations than these do not have a higher efficiency, but only increase the possibility of causing irritation and redness of the skin.
Due to the instability of the vitamin C molecule in the air, smaller packaging should also be chosen in order to consume the product before it loses its properties.
Also, serums usually have a stronger and better activity than creams, most often because of the concentration, but also a lighter texture that allows for better penetration.
Therefore, when choosing a product it is important to pay attention to the concentration of vitamin C in the product, the type of derivative C vitamin, the pH level of the product and on the packaging of the product itself (opaque bottle, smaller packaging).
